The Allure of Open Spaces: A Travelogue from Cambria to Ragged Point
The Central California coast offers an experience of tranquility and natural beauty, serving as a therapeutic refuge for the soul. Our journey commenced with an easy flight to San Luis Obispo, followed by an exploration of the largely undeveloped expanse between Gorda and Morro Bay, where miles of open grasslands and the majestic Pacific Ocean create a breathtaking landscape.
A visit to Hearst Castle, an architectural marvel, allows one to glimpse the opulence of the 1930s, while the nearby Piedras Blancas elephant seal colony presents a chance to observe these giant creatures in their natural habitat.
As we stroll along the Moonstone Beach boardwalk, the serene ambiance and California’s ocean air lets us reflect on the simple yet profound beauty of this region. This episode encapsulates the essence of a retreat into nature, highlighting the allure of California’s empty Central Coast.
As we traverse this scenic area, we are indebted to the Hearst Corporation for the preservation of the 83,000 acres surrounding Hearst Castle. This iconic structure, with its storied history and opulent architecture, serves as a focal point for our explorations.
We visit local wineries, such as Vino Robles. Our exploration culminates in a serene evening stroll along the Moonstone Beach boardwalk in Cambria.
Transcript
Today on GoNomad, we visit the Central California coast.
Speaker A:We started with a flight to San Luis Obispo, California.
Speaker A:When I stepped off the plane in the sun outside of St.
Speaker A:Louis Obispo's Airport terminal, it set the scene with a comfortable sunny outdoor seating area complete with a small stand selling local wines and microbrew beers.
Speaker A:Welcome to California's Central coast.
Speaker A:California has always been my favorite place to visit in the cold winter months.
Speaker A:And this part of the coast between Gorda and Morro Bay is stunning because it's so undeveloped.
Speaker A:Miles and miles.
Speaker A:About 68 miles of coast is simply open grasslands, mountains and the Pacific Ocean.
Speaker A:To be able to drive this far and avoid what we usually find along the ocean anywhere is a refreshing experience.
Speaker A:We have the Hearst Corporation to thank for preserving the 83,000 acres they own here.
Speaker A:17 miles and in either direction from the famous Hearst Castle's entrance.
Speaker A:As we traveled north about a half an hour from Slo, we headed for the Vino Robles Winery in Paso Robles, a building with a sweeping modern design.
Speaker A:It looks kind of like a school.
Speaker A:My hosts, Mike and Noreen were excited to show me the rolling hills in the back of the winery where a new house site was being planned.
Speaker A:Their house would be the first in an area with no other buildings they could enjoy wide open spaces with a magical view of wine grapes on one side and farmland on the other.
Speaker A:Mike explained that he and his wife Noreen wanted to get out of crowded, traffic choked San Diego and this nearly empty part of the coast in Paso Robles was to be their new home.
Speaker A:During my visit, we stayed in a moderately priced hotel, the Cavalier Oceanfront Resort.
Speaker A:Each room had views of the Pacific and it had a little wood stove adding to the comfort and ambiance.
Speaker A:brillo highway, which goes in:Speaker A:Ragged Point.
Speaker A:Just this year, the highway department had repaired a major mudslide and they were about to reopen.
Speaker A:But recently the damage got worse with new storms and the road remains totally closed.
Speaker A:It's the only road heading north to Big Sur and the San Francisco Peninsula.
Speaker A:Locals say that there is no way to travel any further north and ongoing repairs are going to take many months.
Speaker A:Ragged Point is about as far as most travelers can go, which affords an incredible view of the ocean.
Speaker A:Looking at the cliffs crash into the desolate shoreline, some of the California's most expensive gasoline can be found at this, the last gas station on this part of the highway, prices hover just below $6 a gallon.
Speaker A:A worthy stop on this highway in San Simeon is Piedras Blancas northern elephant seal colony.
Speaker A:The turnoff and parking area are just across from the entrance to Hearst Castle.
Speaker A:The best advice I can give you is find the local seal experts in the blue windbreakers.
Speaker A:These local naturalists can rattle off interesting facts about these strange looking animals, including swim thousands of miles at very deep depths in their annual migration.
Speaker A:This is the rookery where they have their babies before taking off again for the waters of the Arctic Ocean.
Speaker A:It's fun watching them laze around and interact.
Speaker A:Their numbers have never been higher owing to being protected from hunting.
Speaker A:The bulls can weigh up to 8, 800 pounds, yet they can swim and dive down to 2,000ft.
Speaker A:According to the seal loving experts on the cliffs that we met, this is a place where people can spend hours and hours watching these goliaths do just about nothing all day long.
Speaker A:Across from here is the long driveway that takes you to a large shopping mall.
Speaker A:No, wait.
Speaker A:That's the visitor center for the famous Hearst Castle.
Speaker A:Called Casa Grande by the builder William Randolph Hearst.
Speaker A:The selection of castle tour here ranges from the simple.
Speaker A:Visit the upstairs suites and see the movie $30 for adults.
Speaker A:Two fantastic all day private tours that can set you back $2,500 a person.
Speaker A:able castle built starting in:Speaker A:If you want a chance to swim in the castle's famous Neptune outdoor pool, you can join the Hearst foundation, attend a gala and have an expensive dip.
Speaker A:Some of the rooms at the castle bend the mind like the bedroom suites on the top floors, including the impressive gothic suite of Casa Grande that showcases beautiful three dimensional ceilings.
Speaker A:Visitors on the upstairs suites tours will enjoy the 14th century ceiling in Mr.
Speaker A:Hearst's own bedroom with its panels of medieval figures.
Speaker A:The man's collection was so impressive that most of the treasures were kept in storage.
Speaker A:He simply had too much to show it all.
Speaker A:Even in Casa Grande, 185 rooms in all.
Speaker A:You'll take more time than you think seeing this castle.
Speaker A:And you'll be glad you did.
Speaker A:Seeing WRH's private airfield and the blue Pacific from high up at the top of Casa Grande makes you want to go back in time and snag an invite to one of his famous legendary parties held in the castle's elegant ballrooms along the Cabrillo highway.
Speaker A:There are small towns with local shops and cafes with old posters, antiques and fun fashions to explore.
Speaker A:One of them was Cambria, population 6,000, which got its start as a mining town in the mid 19th century.
Speaker A:A dining highlight here is Robin's Restaurant, which features seating in a lovely garden area and a charming greenhouse with Indian themed dishes and local Pacific seafood.
Speaker A:On our last evening in California, we set out from our hotel to the popular Moonstone beach in Cambria.
Speaker A:This one mile boardwalk winds along the coast and the rocks below, and we spotted pelicans and other seabirds relaxing in their nests as the sun set over the Pacific.
Speaker A:This walk was the perfect way to enjoy the smell of the ocean and contemplate another seafood dinner in Central California until we return again.
Speaker A:Find out more about Central California at visit san simeonca.com and visit hearstcastle.org.