Wild Elephants & Coffee Plantations: A Journey Through Karnataka, India with David Brodie

But it was a highlight. These are wild elephants and aren't like cage or anything. They're chilling out by the water drinking. I think there's seven or eight of them, like a little family. That was pretty majestic. I've never seen wild elephants before, so that was a big bucket list item ticked off. I was just in awe that they just slowly glide along the water and pick their spot. there was a point where, I don't even remember, there was a deer hanging out in the water, there was turtle on a log, and then there's a couple of other This photo is pretty incredible. So that was a thing that was sticking my...

herd of elephants.

I think of all the places we stayed on the trip. This was actually one of my favorites. It was our first night in a place called Java Rain Resort. Luxury resort kind of up in amongst the coffee plantations. Really quite stunning views, private villas. You know, they had a great pool area. A bit of wildlife. We saw monkeys in the morning when we woke up. It looked like a great spa and restaurants and stuff as well. Certainly.

I think if I was back in the region, I would stay back there. I was pretty impressed with that in terms of the resorts that we checked out.

I think it's my favourite resort of the trip, but I'm going to put it out there as an official thing. I think it's the best luxury resort or hotel I've ever stayed in. Do you love spontaneous adventures, travel tips and stories that will inspire you to pack up and go? Well, welcome to the Wiggin' It Travel podcast. I'm James, your host, and each week I bring you travel tales, practical advice and interviews with travellers from around the globe.

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So today we are doing something a little bit different. We are going to Southern India to Karnataka province to look at the whole range of things to see and do in Southern India. And I'm joined by a very special guest today, James Hammond from the Wing travel podcast. We're doing a bit of a joint podcast today between our two shows. James, how are you doing? Very good. James and I have just got back from a seven day, eight day trip, guess.

Yeah, I'm good. How you doing, David?

Yeah, so eight, nine days, I think.

landing in Bangalore first. Yes. Where we attended the Karnataka International Tourism Conference. But that gave us a chance to then really go and explore a little bit of southern India and really see kind of all that the region has to offer.

Yeah, we started in Bangalore and there'll be episodes on each of our podcasts for that experience. the first initial hit was busy, dusty. It's got eight million people, Bangalore. We had that initiation into Southern India first and then we jumped on to the itinerary that we got given for this trip.

What

did you think? mean, you've been to India before. I've been to India before. How did this experience differ from some of your previous trips?

Yeah, don't forget my last experience lasted three months. Right. So the key point here is I had time. Yeah. And I think we'll come to a conclusion at the end that time is key for your trip in India. So I was intrigued by this tight packed schedule, how it's going to work because we're traveling by bus. And in my experience, buses can be hit and miss and the roads aren't great. It's busy all the time. The thing of India, there's people everywhere. You think a bus is not going to be full. You need to think again, everything is full. The trains are full. So travel time.

needs to be considered. Yeah, I was kind of going to get a different experience in a shorter space of time and I was keen to see how that would compare.

For me, this was my second trip to India. I visited for the first time early last year. And on that first trip, I was really fortunate to be, I happened to stay at an Airbnb with a family who really kind of took me under their wing and showed me around. And that made a huge difference. And I think having someone to guide you through on a first trip to India is probably something to think about because it is a little bit tougher place to travel around logistically, for sure. Schedules tend to switch around a little bit while you're in travel.

It can be, it's not for beginners. It is a little bit higher on the skill level, I think, when it comes to global travel.

And so this time along, we were on a sort of a safari trip, getting out to some of the national parks there. One of the really notable things about this region, I think, is it's got more elephants than anywhere else in the world, more tigers than anywhere else in the world. So for somebody who, wildlife and getting out and doing kind of wildlife exploration, safari tours, this is a great place to do that.

was kind of looking forward to seeing them wildlife again because last time I did a trek to see rhinos and hippos and I saw none. They got a classic response after that saying, oh, you didn't see any, like as if they were shocked. So I wasn't convinced if I was going to see anything this time. So I was a bit more pessimistic. Yeah, I was looking forward to the safari, that's why I chose it. And yeah, I was looking forward to seeing some tigers and maybe some elephants.

we did see a fair bit of wildlife, and I'm sure we'll get into that as we go through kind of the itinerary. The other thing I think this region is really well known for, coffee. It's kind of the birthplace of coffee in India. 80 % of their coffee produced in this region is my understanding. And that's really where we started off the.

in Chick-Mag-Magaloo, I guess was the area where we really focused on the coffee aspects of the trip. We did get to see a little bit of the coffee plantations and stuff where some of the places where we stayed, I think the following night. And that coffee museum did a good job of taking you through all the stages of production and all that sort of thing. And they did have a bit of a tasting at the end of the tour. So, probably something.

Yeah, I enjoyed the coffee there. We got more of a rustic experience because they go through the old school way of doing coffee and yeah, they showed us around for one hour, hour and a half. Yeah. I think you had the opportunity to buy coffee there if you wanted to, but I didn't feel like we tasted enough to do that. the coffee at the end did taste really good and I enjoyed it. Yeah.

And we stayed at pretty, think of all the places we stayed on the trip. This was actually one of my favorites, was our first night in a place called Javarain Resort, luxury resort kind of up in amongst the coffee plantations, really quite stunning views, private villas. You know, they had a great pool area, bit of wildlife, we saw monkeys in the morning when we woke up. it looked like a great spa and restaurants and stuff as well.

I think if I was back in the region, I would stay back there. I was pretty impressed with that in terms of the resorts that we checked out.

I think it was my favorite resort of the trip, but I'm going to put it out there as an official thing. think it's the best luxury resort or hotel I've ever stayed in. Yeah. I was blown away. I don't say luxury much. Yeah. And I don't have much to compare to, but I had that trip to compare that experience. I thought the whole location, the guy who owned it is great. He's quite young. It's family run and it is on the expensive side, but you do get what you pay for there. It's got stunning views over the valley there and the little walkway to the

My own private video was pretty sensational. Yeah. I loved it.

Wish I was the only downside. didn't get a ton of time there. We arrived pretty late at night. Yeah. So we had, we had a dinner there. We got to spend the night overnight and then we're kind of off, off to the next destination. After that, I definitely would have liked to have spent more time there. looked like they had a great spa. with like, they had a lot of, lot of different things to, to experience there for sure.

Look, do remember like in the hotel before they announced we have to split because there's not enough rooms. We didn't really know what to do. Yeah. So we just put our names down for Jarba Rain. I had no intel on that. Yeah. I thought, well, this hotel looks great, but let's see what the other one's like. It's a bit of a risk, winging it almost. Yeah. We put our names down, no idea what to expect and turned out to be a great decision, I think.

I think on that first night. From there, we got to dig a little bit into culture. And this was definitely my favorite cultural stop of the trip was Baylor Temple, sort of the historic pilgrimage site that we got to go in and look at. For me, this is actually reminding me a fair bit of Siem Reap in Cambodia.

Yes, 100%. Yeah, the gold temple, right? Yeah, it's getting that vibes as well, actually.

It's really, really intricate carvings, know, quite a large area that the pilgrimage site covers and multiple different sort of buildings and things that you can go throughout. We had a tour guide who took us through and did a great job sort of giving an orientation, telling you a little bit about the culture and the history. And I thought one of the great things is, if I'm not mistaken, I think we were there on like a Saturday or a Sunday, and there were ton of local families there and all.

kind of dressed up and celebrating and really friendly and welcoming. And I thought that was really one of the highlights of the trip for me for sure.

I felt like we're mini celebrities. You find this a in India. A lot of have never seen foreigners before sometimes. when you walk into a place that's not on the tourist trail, you might get like, oh wow, you're here. So a lot of photos were taken with locals, interactions with some of the group, because some of the group are Indian expats, so they could probably speak some of the language. And I felt the vibe was really family friendly. It was positive. We've got some history on it with our guide. And overall, great experience for an hour.

think that's an important point that I would say throughout our entire trip, I didn't see a ton of international tourists. Like this is definitely a bit of an undiscovered destination at this stage, I would say. You know, in places like Javerin, they were telling me that 90 % of their guests are from Bengaluru, or Bangalore right next door. it's not drawing a huge number of international tourists yet. But there's definitely, definitely, if you're looking for a kind of up and coming bit more of a...

place that's still developing but has some great, great things to see and do, definitely may be a destination that people want to check out.

Yeah, I thought that was the first impression on the night before we went to Chigmagalore Hill Station viewpoint, which is like a 35 minute walk up, right? And full of tourists, but local tourists. I think we're the only international group there. Yeah. And I thought, this is amazing. The sunset was incredible. And we got to view like 360 degrees and it's like a little hill station on top. And I thought, yeah, we are the only tourists here, but this is a stunning location for like a sunset. Yeah.

Six hour drive, but probably only a couple hundred kilometers because it does take you a long time to cover distances.

quite close to India terms, so I was kind of surprised not seeing more tourists.

Yeah,

for sure. And then from there, we sort of continued on through the sort of hill stations up into the mountains, into the western ghats. Our group again kind of split up that night where the women traveling in our group were assigned to one hotel. stayed at another one called Trivac Hotel and Resorts, which you know, on a coffee plantation as well. And a lot of the group, unfortunately, I didn't get up early that morning. don't know you got up early for the plantation hike the next day?

No, because the night we arrived, there was a quick 20 minute walk for a sunset view. Yeah, some people had already checked into their rooms. It was about four five of us. And we got there and it was literally 10 minutes and the sun went down. So I got that sunset view, quickly hiked up there, got the video and I got the time lapse. So I didn't bother in the morning because I had that sunset view.

And this, you know, talking to the owners of the hotel there, they get almost no international travelers. It was very nice, like a solid four star, three star resort with a lot to see and do. had like a ropes course that you could do, pool, spa, you know, and quite a bit to dig into there.

And we had a nice little evening by the pool. I think we labelled it as like a nice like drinks get-together but they took it quite seriously and set out a long table, they had food brought to us by the pool, they had like a little bar area. So they really like did accommodate us quite nicely.

Absolutely.

And then from there back to a bit of kind of cultural exploration, getting to see one of the largest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, you know, in the area, Nam Droling Monastery, I believe. Yes, this one's cool. Golden Temple, I guess, also referred to as, where we got to kind of take in some of the atmosphere there as well.

I think built in the 60s. I think built for Tibetans who feel like they have to leave China. So it's like a little sanctuary. I think the monks live on site. And so when you go and you walk in, you go through the gates, you've got a huge picture. His holiness, Penor Rinpoche. That's right. But when you go in, you see a picturesque guy and he's on this like temple. It's huge. And as you walk in, it's quite striking, I think. And you can go inside and check out the temples and take your shoes off and stuff. And it's really quite impressive. Yeah.

And that really then was a gateway to then take us through to Tamora, the area where we stayed that night. And that was really pretty stunning. mean, a mountainous sort of hill station area that we were staying in, a lot of eco resorts throughout the area. We stayed at one called, or I did, I know we and you ended up at different places that night. I stayed at one called Tamora Korg, which were these kind of unique hill cottages on stilts up in the mountains.

You had great views of the surrounding mountains, great sunset views, quite a nice spa there. I think of all the the resorts we stayed at, probably the best food at this one. They had a really nice restaurant there. Yeah. And unfortunately, we were there during dry season. So it wasn't quite as stunning as I think it would be if you went during the rainy season because they they actually have a glass floor with a waterfall that goes right underneath the main restaurant as well that when we were there, it was more of a

gravel pit than a waterfall, just the time of year, but it was still beautiful and a great restaurant and yeah, a lovely resort as well.

Yeah, I think some of your group might say that's the most luxurious place they've stayed at and it is stunning. My only concern with that is because you've got your own little patch of land but your villa is all up in the hills. You can't casually walk to anywhere because you either...

It was really people looking for, would say kind of a exclusive retreat up in the mountains. You want to be off on your own because yeah, you were quite separated even from the other cottages and to walk from the spa to your cottage might be a 15, 20 minute walk to get across the resort.

who's a really nice person, helps them run the homestay. It's got six rooms, maximum of 12 people. And the idea of a homestay is that you traditionally help out. I mean, that's what homestays are. You're maybe help with the cooking. So I asked, can we like, her names aren't fancy, can we like help anything? She goes, no need to help. Like we do get guests who offer help in the kitchen, create breakfast, maybe do some gardening. We don't have to, but that's the idea of homestay.

Me and Fred stayed there for a night and it was unbelievable views for the sunset and then sunrise in the morning. And I think one of the group, Rosie, she came and took some photos because it's quite a fancy homestay. Yeah. And very comfortable, big rooms. And I think I did ask him how much it is per night. I think he said about a hundred dollars, which might sound a lot, compared to tomorrow where you're staying, that's pretty cheap. Yeah. And Amrith took us in the morning in his Jeep. He's got a few Jeeps onto his plot of land, went down to the stream, went to his house.

and he showed us where Gordon Ramsay cooked his meals. So we got a nice little experience, family-friendly experience, and you need to apply to stay there because they get so many people applying every week. So he says they're pretty selective on who they accept.

cool spot for kind of a impromptu last minute stay for you guys. ended up being a pretty unique stay. Did you get to, do you have the breakfast there or did you end up, I'm trying to remember if.

We had the breakfast there. I'm really bad here. I don't actually remember what we had in terms of the name of the food, but it was traditional Korg breakfast. And what I can remember is like, so rice cakes or rice made patties. And also like, I guess it's like roti bread. And it was like cold, what I would say, a, almost like a vegetable curry with that. And they have eggs as well. They cooked me some omelets. So, and coffee as well. Of course, that reminds me the best thing about it is he gave me a...

packet of coffee which is made on site and they sell it on site. I'm now drinking it in Vancouver.

And I think at Tomorrow, they had the same thing. They had their own shop where they had locally grown, I don't know if it's grown right at the resort itself, but coffee as well. And they also had a huge sort of garden area where they were growing fresh vegetables, herbs, everything that was very much incorporated into all of the meals. I think in terms of price point, it was in the neighborhood of about 250 to $350 a night, if I remember correctly, for sort of the cottages there. And I'm sure that varies depending on the season and how busy it is and things as well.

And then that was really a jumping off point for us to get to what we were ultimately there for, this furry portion of the trip at Nargahole National Park and Tiger Reserve, which was a bit of a switch. We were initially scheduled to go to a different national park and then just with, as happens sometimes, on a trip anywhere, but as we talked about sometimes, plan shift when you're traveling in India and the other national park that we had initially been scheduled to had a large group.

that ended up being closed off. And as a result, we redirected over to Nargahole National Park, a huge park reserve. And I think only about 10 % of it that you can even go and experience on safari trips. Quite a large population of tigers, of elephants there. We saw a ton of elephants as we were coming through. We saw a gaur, I believe it was called. had a large bison.

I think that was quite cool to see a lot of deer, wild boars, monkeys. Um, we missed the leopards and the tigers, unfortunately. The wrong time of day, you know, we were, we were there late in the day. So I think that would be the tip. If you are going to go to Nogahole to make sure that you're, uh, you know, get at least two safari drives if you can. That's going to be Yeah. We're unfortunately just the way our travel schedule netted out. ended up being there kind of midday.

Yeah

in Dawn I think it's a

So we still saw a bunch of wildlife, just not some of the big cats that are the big draw that get a lot of people to go to that part of the world for sure.

But it was a highlight. These are wild elephants and aren't like cage or anything. They're chilling out by the water drinking. I think there's seven or eight of them, like a little family. That was pretty majestic. I've never seen wild elephants before. So that was a big bucket list item ticked off. And I was just in awe that they just slowly glide along the water and pick their spot. there was a point where, I don't even remember, there was a deer hanging out in the water. There's turtle on a log. then there's a couple of elephants. It was pretty incredible. So yeah, that was a thing that was stuck in my mind.

There's a herd of elephants.

Have you ever seen tigers? you done tigers for us before?

Yeah, but not in a wild setting. This would be in Thailand where they do the dodgy walking with the tiger next to you. Okay. I do not recommend it because they're probably drugged or whatever. So yeah, I've touched a tiger and I've fed a tiger a chicken, but it's not legit, that's for sure.

Well, I've probably done two or three Tiger's Faris now in Sri Lanka, I believe we did one, and in Nepal, and in India, and I'm zero for three in terms of-

Yeah, I don't have a great record with wildlife

But if you are looking to see them, like where we were is really the heart of the best place, the largest population of tigers you're going to find anywhere in the world. And I know, you know, talking to our guide who we went out with that day, I mean, he was showing us stunning pictures from earlier that day, from the previous day. I think we just happened to catch it at a bad window there that we were a little unlucky.

I do remember that was the only activity, because we mentioned earlier, India, know, things can take time or get canceled. It was the only thing that was on time. Yeah, that's Like, hang on time. Yeah, hang Like 2.30, we're going. We got there for 1.30 for lunch or 1.45. Yeah. And as soon as it came to 2.30, it was like, we're off, we've got to go. Yeah. And that was the only time I thought it was like strict timings. So it was nice because we got to see elephants. So that's quite nice to have that.

And then from there, traveled to Mysore.

Yeah, I knew nothing about the place. I knew a lot of the group wanted to see Mysore, Mysore Palace and stuff like that. So for me, it was purely brand new. Don't know much about the place. And we arrived and we had 45 minutes, I think, before the tour started. And you kind of can walk around the grounds. I think it's a time of day where locals go and they don't want photos or videos. Even though locals are doing that, this is the time for locals, not for tourists. So we decided to hale down a couple of rickshaws and go to a local market.

And that market, I thought, was one of the highlights of trip for me. It was what, maybe a five-minute rickshaw ride away from Mysore Palace. It was really kind of the local flower market, spice market, vegetable market on a Saturday morning. I think that we were there and lots of local handicrafts and stuff as well. A lot of locals there. It was super vibrant and really nice market. I was quite impressed.

called

Debarajo Market, think it's called. It's by a clock tower in Mysore. I put that in Google and it has like, yeah, a range of things, fruit and spices and just local people talking about their daily lives. I think we're the only tourists there. I don't see many other ones. can't remember. Yeah. It's nice. It's nice to get in amongst local culture for 20, 25 minutes where it's not planned. Exploring, getting our photos, maybe speaking to some locals. I think they're surprised to see us.

for you kind of winging it, making up the itineraries we went to that ended up being both there and in Bangalore where we did some of the same, some of the best parts of the trip where the unplanned really catching, digging into the local culture a little bit and some of those unplanned moments for sure.

Yeah, don't be afraid to hail down a rickshaw and just say, want to go here. If you don't want to barter, just offer a price. I think we paid 100 rupees one way. Yeah. And sometimes you can say to the driver, you wait 20 minutes and pay him a bit extra? So yeah, just get out on the road, hail one down and it's pretty easy.

I have to say coming back that I was stunned by is like how inexpensive transportation was when we were there. I had a bunch of you know, we did a bunch of uber rides back and forth You know in the capital when we first arrived and around various places and you know Sometimes because of traffic we would be in an hour long or longer Uber I don't think any of those cost more than four dollars five dollars. They were they were really really inexpensive

My first one was on Uber, the app, but you can actually order a rickshaw on Uber. I think it was 67 rupees, so we're talking less than a dollar here. And that was to go from where we were staying, I think to a park. I think that was like 20, 25 minute ride, less than a dollar. And you can upgrade for another 50 cents to get an actual car. So real cheap to get around.

Yeah. And then our, well, and I guess the palace itself too, just really kind of spectacular interiors, ornate halls. One of the things that was clear, you know, just looking at some of the illustrations and stuff surrounding the periphery of the palace is that it plays a central part in a lot of the local festivals. And I think if you could time your visit to be there during one of those local festivals would be pretty dynamic. And also,

My understanding is that when they light it up at night is really stunning as well. Again, just timing wise didn't work out that we didn't get to see it during the night, but definitely I would say if you're planning a trip there, you're going to want to make sure that you plan to be able to see that.

I

Yeah, just one of those places where you can't take photos or videos. Maybe photos are okay, definitely not videos. And we got a lot of information from our guide. I don't remember too much, but the architecture inside is stunning. Yeah. Yeah. So yeah, again, if I was going back, it'd be nighttime viewing for that, I think.

And then our final stop of the journey as we got back to Bengaluru was the Golden Chariot Train, which is kind of an iconic luxury tourist train, heritage train that takes people on trips throughout southern India to places like Chikmagaluru to Hampi to other destinations.

Really pretty luxurious on board, I was leaving a live aboard train where you've got, know, private accommodations with your own, you know, your own bathroom, your own, you know, quite large suites throughout the train. One of the unique things I hadn't seen on a luxury train, I've been on a few luxury trains around the world. The first one I'd seen that had a full gym on the train. was kind of... And spa too. can get massage as you run the train.

yeah. what were your thoughts on the gold?

Well, based on my train experience last time in India, it was a very different experience. Yeah. I was on the sleeper train, so they're like $2 a go and you get three beds either side. So, nice to go on a bit of luxury. I would say that if you want to, it's a luxury thing to do, but if you want to have a similar experience but not pay that price, you can get like a premium first class on a normal train. Yeah. That normally comes the top class, I it's like diamond class that comes with a butler maybe. It would maybe bring you some drinks and food.

But we're talking like 20, $30 a ride. I mean, it's like a really luxury thing to do for cheap price. Yeah, but obviously if you want to slum it and do a backpacker thing, that's a $2 ride in a sleeper carriage. You can do that as well. So I know golden chariot is much more expensive than that. And when you go on it, you kind of realize that the decor inside is about luxury, right? So yeah, it's a different experience, but I would have loved to have just gone up just a two hour ride from Bangalore to Mysore or whatever it would be. Yeah, just experience it going along. That'd be quite cool.

Yeah, and I thought the decor was quite stunning, the facilities on the train was quite presbystic, the food I thought a little disappointing. It could have been a little better maybe than it was. I don't know if that was, I don't think, because we were really just given a chance to tour the train in station, it wasn't part of their normal journey. And I'm not sure if the menu that we received that day was part of what you would get as part of the normal trip as well. But that was the only part that I thought was little lacking on that.

In a weird way, the generic train is better for food because you get the vendors come on and give you some vegetable pakora for 10 cents and that's out of a bag, right? It's really tasty. yeah, it wasn't as good as I thought it'd be.

Yeah. So any any final thoughts on on southern India?

It's a place I definitely want to go back to. And I thought the group did really well. There's 23 of us to adapt to the changes. So I want to give a shout out to the group. A lot of people that we have now connected with. And I think it's been a good four or five days on that tour and then the three days at the event to really connect with some new people. We've got some new friends out of that. And as a place to travel to, I think is an area where maybe people should look into because it's new. If you like maybe a bit more rustic travel, it's probably quite cool for that.

And until they catch up with other places like Rajasthan or Darjeeling in the north, I think the prices would be fairly handy for the time being and just give them a bit of slack. So I think they're working out as a tourism place to go to.

clearly a place that they are investing a lot in tourism. They're looking to draw in international tourists. I thought the event itself that we attended, the Tourism Expo, the organizers did quite well. mean, they did a really good job, I thought, of showcasing some of the culture of the area. We had some amazing folk dancing there the first night that we arrived where they were talking about kind of 150 different forms of folk dance in the province and showcased probably eight to 10 of them and really

really stunning performances. We had a chance to stay at the, have dinner at the Shangri-La there in Bengaluru, which was a great property. you know, definitely a place that you can see that they are working to bring in international tourists and that there's a lot to see and do.

Bangalore as a city to be based in, cool city to check out for two or three days. There's lots of nice parks and various activities to do. So I think that's your base point and then you can go out into the hills and to the seaside as well. So I think there's lots of different types of activities to check out.

both of us are going to be doing separate episodes on that, on our takes on the city itself. We both had a chance to kind get out and explore that independently a little bit outside of the trip that we were on and really get into a little bit more of the culture of the city. So, I would encourage people, if you are going to be traveling to the region, to check out on Travel in 10 and on the Winging it Travel podcast, we're going to have a couple more episodes.

I've got an audio-immersive episode for Bangalore because as you can imagine, a lot of sounds. So I've collected a few sounds and I think it's going be cool episode to give you the idea of what Bangalore and Southern India could be like in terms of destinations to travel. Thanks so much. Appreciate it. Thanks for tuning in to the podcast episode today. If you've been inspired by today's chat and want to book some travel, if you head to the show notes, you'll see some affiliate links below which help support this podcast. You'll find Skyscanner to book your flight.

Fantastic, well thanks, Jim.

You'll find booking.com to book that accommodation. Want to stay in a super cool hostel? You'll see Hostel World down there too. You'll find Revolut to get your travel card sorted. Click the GIGSky link to get your eSIM ready for your trip. And more importantly, you'll find Safety Wing Insurance to get that travel insurance for your trip. There are many more to check out. So when you click that link and book your product, a small commission goes towards me and the Wigginit Travel Podcast. Thank you in advance and enjoy your travels.